Немного электрики

Здрасьте всем. Пока раздатка в пути, решил проверить алгоритм и работоспособность актуатора туровской раздатки. Как оказалось не зря. Снял с родной раздатки актуатор, под машиной его подключил, и полез в салон. Включаю зажигание, перевожу переключать из положения HIGH в положение LOW, … и тишина… Нет не тишина, на дисплее появилось сообщение "SHIFT TO NEUTRAL" (переключитесь на нейтральную передачу). Ого думаю, тур не видит нейтралку. Ну ладно думаю не проблема. Снимаю с коробки передач датчик "Выключатель холостого хода", как он называется, подключаю его в разьем… Короче опять тишина. Моргают HIGH и LOW а на дисплее та же самая надпись. Залажу под машину, проверяю проводку и вот она болячка всех таурегов. В косе, идущей на датчик выключателя ХХ и выключатель заднего хода, оторваны два проводка на датчик выключателя холостого хода. Есть причина. Зачищаю и скручиваю эти проводки, включаю зажигание и вот упоительный результат, мотор раздатки заработал. Надпись на дисплее потухла, мотор заработал как надо.
Это конечно не может не радовать, но это так скажем еще пол дела. У меня будет коробка не механика а автомат, поэтому мне нужно будет сделать так, чтобы тур видел нейтраль не от датчика выключения холостого хода, а от селектора в положении "N". Значит нужно найти пин, которым управляет датчик выключения ХХ. После недолгих манипуляций он был найден. Управляется он минусом. Сама коса на выключатель заднего хода и выключатель ХХ, мне не нужна, поэтому отцепляю её от разьема и распиновываю разьем контактов. Ну а сам разьем заведу в салон, а от него селектором АКПП с помощью реле тур будет управлять и лампами заднего хода и нейтралью. Вроде все на сегодня. Кстати, не подскажите что означает желтая иконка слева на дисплее?
Та самая надпись
Вниз идет коса, её дербаним.
Эту фишку заведу в салон.
Ну и сама распиновка её.
Oil leak and message “switch To idling”
Hi, my Treg (03 2.5 TDi R5 6spd manual) developed One big oil leak and seems that it comes from behind the alternator gear (engine side)! Can this be from there? Is it really oil on that part and is this a common leak? Searched a few foruns but found nothing so far. also sometimes displays the message “low oil pressure — stop engine” ocasionally!
Other problem is that when i try to engage the low range, the button starts blinking and the message “shift to idling” appears on the MFD and nothing else happens! Any ideas?
Big oil leak, low oil pressure and shift to idling error messages on my R5 Treg!
Hi, my Treg developed One big oil leak and seems that it comes from behind the alternator gear (engine side)! Can this be from there? Is it really oil on that part and is this a common leak? Searched a few foruns but found nothing so far.
Other problem is that when i try to engage the low range, the button starts blinking and the message "shift to idling" appears on the MFD and nothing else happens! Any ideas?
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Manual or automatic?
Pictures of leak?
Nothing to do with the leak but it's ESSENTIAL you ONLY use VW 505.01 or VW 506.01 engine oil to avoid excessive camshaft lobe wear.
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [ site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]
VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7
Models, engines, build years, etcetera — all essential reading — is here:
http://en.wikipedia. kswagen_Touareg and here:
https://www.autoevolution.com/volkswagen/touareg/
The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used Generation 1 VW Touareg [T1 & T2 2002-10] that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:
http://www.mytreg.co. at-to-look-for/
FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1; 957 = T2; 958.1 = T3; 958.2 = T4; 9YA = T5
Brilliant site with a lot of information and many photos of all the Cayenne models since launch! https://www.stuttcars.com/porsche-models/cayenne/958/
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Sorry, 6spd manual.
I'll try to take a pic today, it's a bit hard To see.
About the oil, i have just bought the Treg, no idea of previous maintenances and oil used, is there anything i can check To see if wrong oil was used? Also i get sometimes the message "low oil pressure — stop engine", have To check sensor as it shows randomly and have no strange noises (hope it's just something of minor importance since the previous owner said it was like that for over 1 year).
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Nothing you can do to check on the use of correct oil unless you have detailed receipts you can trust.
Just buy the right stuff and a VW oil filter and change it. Note that even VW dealers have been known to use the wrong oil!
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [ site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]
VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7
Models, engines, build years, etcetera — all essential reading — is here:
http://en.wikipedia. kswagen_Touareg and here:
https://www.autoevolution.com/volkswagen/touareg/
The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used Generation 1 VW Touareg [T1 & T2 2002-10] that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:
http://www.mytreg.co. at-to-look-for/
FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1; 957 = T2; 958.1 = T3; 958.2 = T4; 9YA = T5
Brilliant site with a lot of information and many photos of all the Cayenne models since launch! https://www.stuttcars.com/porsche-models/cayenne/958/
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Yes it's a big leak, it drops a fair amount To the ground everytime i park it. Is there oil runing behind the gear for the alternator? Between the side if the alternator and the rest of the gears in the flywheel side?
When i test drive the Treg nothing happened, no messages, nothing and it ran great (i had other Treg before and this run's way better, more smooth and with more power) but i didn't noticed the leak and the only thing i haven't tested was low range
Tested the suspension and was perfect, also clutch, dmf and the usual earing for noises and dipstick fumes or oil spiling and nothing.
Only on the way Back home, after some miles it displayed the oil pressure message a few times and also in different driving ocasions and that's when i asked the seller about this and he told it did that long time but forgot to mention it.
About last oil change, seller told it was 5k miles ago, but since i lost trust on what he says, i'm going to change it now when i'll try to find and repair the leak and check the oil pressure sensor connections.
Also i'm not driving it for long runs until i have this sorted. I only bought it 4 days ago and here in PT there are no many mechs that know how to fix Tregs.
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I'm not sure what your legal rights are in Portugal, but I would be looking to return it to the seller!
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I'm not sure what your legal rights are in Portugal, but I would be looking to return it to the seller!
It wasn't bought in a dealer or with warranty, so nothing To do about it, but the price was good and i do like it so now the only thing To do is Start the repairs and hoping it's nothing serious.
Already saw that, it does look like the oil goes down the sump through the gear area, maybe there's some kind of retainer behind the gear that moves the alternator that developed a leak.
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Ok found it, it's really coming from behind the alternator gear, there is a oil seal there that has To be replaced, i'll order it from VW tomorrow.
To remove the alternator i have to remove the Intake Manifold and motor mount both, only one of them or any of them?
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If you are removing the alternator then, if I recall correctly, there is a rubber Gates coupling you should replace at the same time as this should be regarded as a service item.
I think it may be a two part piece with a clutch to avoid damaging the engine if the alternator seizes and both parts should be replaced together.
Again, from memory, the same Gates coupling and clutch is on the air-con compressor for the same reason and is also a service item.
There are Youtubes for both items.
Tip! Search this forum using Google or Bing with [ site:www.mytreg.com word word word ]
VW Touareg models are as follows:
Generation 1: T1 is model 7LA and the facelift T2 is model 7L6
Generation 2: T3 is model 7P5 and the facelift T4 is model 7P6
Generation 3: T5 is model CR7
Models, engines, build years, etcetera — all essential reading — is here:
http://en.wikipedia. kswagen_Touareg and here:
https://www.autoevolution.com/volkswagen/touareg/
The world's most comprehensive guide to buying a used Generation 1 VW Touareg [T1 & T2 2002-10] that could save you money [even more essential reading!] is here:
http://www.mytreg.co. at-to-look-for/
FYI: Porsche Cayenne 955 = T1; 957 = T2; 958.1 = T3; 958.2 = T4; 9YA = T5
Brilliant site with a lot of information and many photos of all the Cayenne models since launch! https://www.stuttcars.com/porsche-models/cayenne/958/
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Yes already read that, i'll try To order everything thanks!
Ok YouTube instructions are to remove both.
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This one is giving a fight! Waiting for a friend to come help, it seems to Shake a bit, i hope that's not bad.
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Damn, new oil seal, still leaking, and the shaft shakes a bit.
Any ideas? Help please!
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It looks like it's the alternator oil seal that's failing — and the official VW service documentation doesn't mention dropping the engine as a pre-requisite for replacing that. It only says to remove the alternator, and then the hub from the alternator shaft. Then the oil seal can be removed with a puller hook. However, it seems like you will need a few special tools for completing the replacement: T20143/1-puller hook, T10208/1-screw guide sleeve, T10208/3-press piece. Seal part number should be 070 103 051 A. But, as always, double check everything I say.
If it's not just the seal, but something deeper, that's wearing out and allowing the drive shaft to move and possibly destroy the seal in the process, then of course you'd need to drop the whole engine, remove the timing case, and look what's causing the problem (drive gear, or whatever).
Please shift to idling туарег что это
А остальные блокировки тоже в нейтрале ?:smile:
У меня каждое утро, при заводе авто, пишет SHIFT TO IDLING. И мигает блокировка. Начинаю ехать, после 30 км/ч. пишет что быстро еду. Проезжаю примерно 1 километр и все пропадает работает как обычно. Что случилась та. Проводка что ли сгнила. wacko:
Добавлено через 7 минут 26 секунд
Блин ,ни кто со мной не разговаривает((:helpz:
У меня каждое утро, при заводе авто, пишет SHIFT TO IDLING. И мигает блокировка. Начинаю ехать, после 30 км/ч. пишет что быстро еду. Проезжаю примерно 1 километр и все пропадает работает как обычно. Что случилась та. Проводка что ли сгнила. wacko:
Добавлено через 7 минут 26 секунд
Блин ,ни кто со мной не разговаривает((:helpz: